Watch our favourite shows so far from Paris Fashion Week. The weather might be getting warmer in the UK, but before it does we plan on experimenting with the autumn styles we’ve seen on the parisian runway.
ROLAND MOURET
Sharp cuts, researched materials and self-assured femininity at Roland Mouret ! The first show on this third day of Paris Fashion Week with the Roland Mouret collection. The designer stays true to his ultra feminine line, with a close fitting silhouette, researched materials, textured, and sharp cuts. The juxtaposition of colours prompts new, very modern, graphic and geometric designs. A highlighted waist, with short pleated or flared skirts, or slim trousers, and cropped tops, Roland Mouret renews his propositions, always with the same rigour and by bringing a real sensuality to the wardrobe each time. To note: the gold zip detailing which decorates the backs of the outfits and accessorizing the fronts of the ultra sexy boots!
CARVEN
A new duo for the Carven house, with Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, who are looking for a fresh, active and urban Parisian. The silhouette is dynamic, with several colours reminiscent of the sixties, for an energetic wardrobe constituted of miniskirts, and high waisted ski-style trousers. The little tops with comfortable volumes are equally very desirable, highlighting this longline silhouette. We also notice the work on these texturised materials, with magnificent floral jacquards. The little smock dresses at the final demonstrate the work of these couture ateliers from this French house who take on young these young designers for a new era.
LANVIN
An imaginary journey to Morocco, the country of origin of Alber Elbaz for this new Lanvin collection who is also the subject of a retrospective opening this week in the Galliera Museum in Paris.Trousers highlighted with red bands on the side, tucked into riding boots, little short spencers, or a split skirt, the designer reinterprets an urban wardrobe, with great desirability. A number of details borrowed from the original country of the designer, Morocco, punctuate the clothes: belts with pompoms, trimmings, fringing, Berber stripes, capes, caftans, and asymmetrical leather shirt fronts… A sensation of comfort and warmth emanates from a skirt rolled on the hips, a long coat, or gilets in goat or sheepskin. The chiffon dresses embroidered in gold illuminate the Beaux-Arts and the embroideries that adorn the last looks highlight the couture work of the ateliers of this house in the honour of the Jeanne Lanvin exhibition opening this week at the Palais Galliera.
RICK OWENS
Mythological creatures or science fiction characters at Rick Owens for a collection presented in the underground of the Palais de Tokyo.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
An urban, animal and irresistible wardrobe designed by Raf Simons for Christian Dior.An animal woman on the Christian Dior catwalk set up right in the heart of the square courtyard of the Louvre. Raf Simons reinterprets with modernity the animal and camouflage prints for the short dresses without sleeves with mock turtlenecks.
MUGLER
Sensuality is the focus for the second season by Damir Doma at Mugler. The London based designer succeeded to integrate the vocabulary of the house owned today by the Courtin family, all by redefining a new woman. Sensuality is the focus through the propositions with these dresses which envelop the body. The presence of the eyelets, layering of materials, the belted waist and the high collar are all based on details that Damir chose to incorporate in these new silhouettes. He’s inspired by circuit board sockets translated into the wardrobe by textured lines and even 3D sequins and copper toned leather bringing a futuristic aspect.
ACNE STUDIOS
Art, architecture and fashion always intermingle at the Swedish brandA rendez-vous for Acne Studios on the ground floor of the Pompidou Centre in Paris, with a view directly onto the street…Art, architecture and fashion always intermingle at the Swedish brand. Wool is found at the heart of the collection but not just for the knitwear, but also used for the blankets. Jonny Johansson enjoys making it attractive especially through a play with rolled up cords around the material and on the body. The shapes are sculptural particularly on these oversized coats. One of the biggest inspirations of the designer comes from Vivianne Sassen, the photographer from the Netherlands, where several photos are used in prints on these long trousers open at the bottom worn with transparent tops.
KENZO
At Kenzo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have the gift to create incredible universes to present collections that mix streetwear with style. The show starts with a wall which comes forward at the same time as the first model, which then divides into several blocks turning over themselves. The set is always incredible at Kenzo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have the gift to create a universe to present the collections that mix streetwear with style. The fluidity is the focus for next winter with loose parkas, pleated dresses, and little skirts over floral printed flowers. The vertical lines are found on the tailored trousers. The caps are finished with shawls, and then capes and blankets appear in jacquard. It’s all about being enveloped like the juxtaposition of these clothes in warm colours such as green, yellow, orange, red and burgundy.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
In the Opera Garnier, Stella McCartney offers an urban and confident woman.In the Opera Garnier, Stella McCartney offers an urban and confident woman. The designer works with different luxurious wools for next winter, through long, asymmetrical jumper dresses. The tailored trousers – that you can keep forever – are not worn with jackets but with strapless tunics, which are lightly flared, just like the long trousers. The silhouette is not straight, but ends in volume and frills. She also adds sections of brocade on a shoulder for a touch of shine. The grizzly coats make their entrance, a way for Stella to show that it is possible to design using faux fur. Without forgetting the black and white silk which plays with graphic shapes.
