CARVEN – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
The last aerodynamic collection at Carven for Guillaume Henry.The Carven woman has more and more self confidence and she’s always moving at a fast pace. The silhouette is aerodynamic, sporty and graphic, with a touch of the sixties through the zip detailing and the turned out collars. Witness some cycling shorts, cropped jackets, skirts and short dresses. All of these are done in colour block or in multiple graphic oriental prints creates a young and fresh wardrobe. The collection was full of personality designed by Guillaume Henry for his last collection at Carven.
ROLAND MOURET – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
A “desirable” collection by Roland Mouret…The first show of the day was at the Beaux Arts, for Roland Mouret, who just like an artist, uses colour to structure the silhouettes. The designer from Toulouse adorned the girls in a number of dresses and close fitting skirts, with a very defined waist which flared at the hips, and also ultra sculpted pieces with zips at the back. A 3D appliquéd rose, made this collection even more feminine. The elastic bands outlined the backs and shoulders. The bright orange brought the show to a close with assymetrical tops and dresses embroidered with frayed feathers. Roland Mouret is becoming more and more international with the opening of a boutique on Madison Avenue, a wonderful French success for the self-taught designer!
VIONNET – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
Modern ballerinas at VionnetYet again, the fashion house Vionnet created a show with an incredible mise-en-scène. In the basement of the Museum of Architecture in Paris, we took a journey through a long tunnel, where the girls were transformed into ballerinas, with their shadows looking like outlines of dance moves. Goga Ashkenazi, owner and creative director of the house, outlined backstage the importance of the movement of the body, revealing it with bodies and suspenders. The tones were revolved around white, grey and beige. Notice the draping of the clothes which was sensual, and the tulle skirts transformed into loose skirts worn with bras. It was evident that accessories held their importance too with the huge belts and the back packs with harnesses.
DRIES VAN NOTEN – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
‘I really wanted to do something beautiful, fluid, feminine, above all with simple pieces, so the girl could put them on without having to think. She goes to the beach, she has a little brunch, and that becomes a gem, so really it’s about the lightness. I created lots of textures, it was hard work to create all these fabrics and when I got them, I didn’t want to do a collection, I just wanted to make beautiful clothes. In all of the pieces there also are a lot of cuts, so it’s not only about textures, but it’s truly about the work with the bias cuts, jacquard prints which needed a very specific treatment for the pattern making, so it’s a collection very elaborate not only with the materials but also with the shapes. The green of course on the rugs, the lightness, the nature, walking on the moss.’ – Dries Van Noten
ROCHAS – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
‘For me, it’s very important for the DNA of the brand, it’s very very important, and the volume…the mood is very “Rochas” but for me it’s very interesting working for the new silhouette for the new materials which are very, very light, the lightness this season for me is very important. The mixing of materials, the mixing of the situations is very sophisticated but with a sporty attitude with the belts, the “R”, the obi belts, the socks. I like the mix and match, it’s a very elegant situation with a little touch of sport and modernity The sensuality is very innocent, it’s not too glamorous or sexy, but very innocent, almost childlike.” – Alessandro Dell’Acqua
GUY LAROCHE – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
At Guy Laroche, the wardrobe is feminine, with revealing backs as the stand out silhouette. The leather and embroidery brought a touch of sensuality to the short cocktail dresses. Marcel Marongiu played with the lengths of the pieces as well as contrasting colours to structure the clothes.
CHRISTINE PHUNG – COLLECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2015
Christine Phung celebrates her love of materials with the background decoration at the Arab World Institute in Paris.After the skiers in the mountains for her last autumn/winter collection, Christine Phung emhphasises an adventure of cycling around volcanoes…the imaginary tale explains better the idea of urban mixed with movement, in this very feminine collection, where the dress is found at the heart of the collection. The designer played with new fabrics, and techniques, where she used pleats, weaves, and even digitalized photo prints of lava in circles printed on the silk. Equally notable is the play with suspenders, volume on the t-shirts and jackets and even on the cropped tops worn with the flared skirts.
